Bike outing along the Vltava

We had an enjoyable couple hours riding the paths along the Vltava river yesterday.

But first, we started the day at Cafe Parlor in Karlin.

We rented the bikes through the bike sharing app, Rekola, for 35 Kc an hour (US$1.65, MX30p). They are available all over the city, are easy to use, and well maintained.

Adios, San Miguel…

It was a beautiful 10-year run. And after many ups and downs the past several weeks as we’ve continued to wrap our lives here, we don’t leave sad but grateful for all we’ve been able to do and see, for all the friends we’ve made and those we’ve crossed paths with. When we return to Mexico, it will be because it’s the next step forward rather than a step back.

Catching the ETN bound for Mexico City Airport with all our worldly possessions. Next stop: Prague.

A Postcard From the Quiet In-Between

It’s 4:30a.m. Early, but I can’t sleep. Nostalgia washes over me in waves. It ebbs and flows, where sometimes I feel like I’m drowning in it, and sometimes its distant and remote so I can face it with scorn.

A year ago, E had just graduated. He was packing to leave for Oregon for the summer.

Now, he’s an ocean and a continent away, living on his own in Prague. So much has happened in such a short time. But that will be the way for the rest of our lives, I think.

I’m so very proud of what he’s been able to do; how well he’s handled himself and with such maturity and aplomb. He’ll do well with the challenges ahead of him.

It’s so quiet now. No Olivia the dog in the morning, no snoring away or the little yelps as she dreams of runs through the campo. Not even the crow of a distant rooster, no brakes of the semi trucks coming down the highway in the distance, or the lowing of the train. (I haven’t even noticed the train since we’ve been back…I wonder where it went?) Now, just the hum of the refrigerator, the random creak and pop as the house settles and adjusts.

It’s been very wet this June. And gray and cool. We don’t even have the windows open and i wear sweat pants and a fleece.

I’ve really become aware of the affect of the cool, gray weather on my mood and my waning desire to write. My most creative and abundant journals, I think, are from when it is very warm, and I have to get up early in the morning to escape the midday heat. I guess it just takes the groggy morning stillness.

Today is Wednesday and in one week, we will be on a plane over the Atlantic Ocean en route to Prague.

(this laptop keyboard is so loud! too loud! I don’t want to wake Pati!)

Now as we get closer to visiting, most of what I look forward to is just being back together with our son. Reconnecting with him. Building new memories. Hearing first-hand what he’s been doing and seeing. Maybe having him show us around his new home. Getting to cook our favorite meals together (a recent favorite, vegan lentil bolognese). Getting to laugh and be silly and hug and be silly and laugh while we cook together. And go out to dinner and feed our young starving college student (maybe this excellent Indian spot near his school or this pretty tasty for central Europe Mexican restaurant (he says he really misses Mexican food…how could he not?)).

And the city itself? Yes, I look forward to visiting. But I’m less excited than I would have been in the past (I should DIG into this). Maybe because it hasn’t been that long since we’ve been there—only three months. Maybe because it is such an arduous effort to get there and the jet lag that comes with it. All I want to do is teleport there and be done. Airports and airplanes just suck.

But I do look forward to experiencing the city in a new season. Being able to be out and about without freezing our butts off. Lingering in the outdoors. Savoring the outdoors. Finding a bench and sitting and watching the world go by. Strolling.


11:30a.m. and I’m out. Having a quick coffee at Mama Mia. Doing a little work. Feeling very nostalgic with less than a week in San Miguel. It is very surreal that feeling, knowing we may never be back.

Giving everything up. Again. Moving on, but still here, knowing how much life we’ve lived in San Miguel.

Man, everything I pass, everything I touch, everything I smell or taste or see—it’s visceral how much San Miguel is a part of me, of us. From the big bells that ring at 11:30, 11:45, and noon for midday mass. The small bells that chime the quarter hour from El Reloj in the jardin. The sound of thunder in June from the east as the clouds gather and the wind picks up and I’d better head home before the rain begins to fall.

Even the feel underfoot of the polished tan and salmon volcanic tuff of the sidewalk where you have step carefully if it’s wet or you just might slip. Or the rough plaster and concrete and brick and adobe walls as I drag my fingers along. And when I walk down Aldama or Jesus or Sollano, I feel like I’m walking on the backs of an army of a million cobblestone turtles lined up in the street.

And of course, I can’t help but continually doubt myself and ask if we’ve made the right decision.

But I know we need to go. Pati and I definitely need to go, but I wonder if we’ve made the right decision for E. We’ll always wonder that, I guess, and maybe only time will tell.


Wrote a postcard. Czechia bound for 13 pesos and 50 centavos.

It’s a saxophone and no rain kind of almost-sunny-but-not-quite morning listening to “Tell Him I Said Hello” by Nicole Glover while the aroma of coffee mingled with old wood wafts through the cafe and the gentle sound of sing-song Spanish bounces in the background air.

Well that didn’t go as planned…

So much for 30 posts in 30 days…

After being off to a good start with eight posts in eight days, we ran out of storage with our WordPress account and were frozen out of posting.

After spiraling in depression at again not living up to expectations, I explored a number of new platforms and alternative approaches. I tried migrating over to WordPress.org. I tried migrating over to Ghost. I tinkered with Substack.

After wasting way too much time, I had to shift gears and attend to real-life and real work.

We finally bit the bullet, though, and upgrading our storage here so will continue to post here.

In the spirit of keeping things alive, just a few videos of Sunday nights fireworks display marking the end of the celebration of the feast of San Antonio.

Firework over the San Antonio church marking the end of the feast of San Antonio. And yes, the church is that close, and yes, they do rain down on the house.
Long one, with wide angle, trying to capture some of the higher ones. (And yes, it really is 8 minutes of video!)

Finding Freedom in Letting Go of Books

Speaking of culling items, one of the more difficult ones for me…personally, emotionally, existentially…is going through my books.

I have a lot of books. And I could easily have more. I can’t pass a book without having to at least steal a glance.

I read books in two ways: First as entertainment. Typically fiction, though some nonfiction also; think Biography of John Adams or something like that. These books are easier to let go. I might associate them with some specific time or event in life, like where I bought them, or what was going on at the time, but I don’t get particularly attached. They are easier for me to part with. Some of them we like to call “airport books” and are easy give away (and often with relish).

The second kind of books are the ones I read to learn, to grow, to figure things out. These I read with commitment and revisit regularly over the years, and they are much harder to let go. Currently, these roughly break down into writing, language, grammar; environmental history and well-written life and earth science narratives; “nature writing”; well-written and resonant travel writing; hard-to-find or obscure but indispensable history books about San Miguel or Mexico. Basically, books that I continue to draw and learn from, that are part of how I think, what I reference, how I process the world. These are difficult to let go of because it’s like letting go of a part of myself.

As I go through them, I thought I’d highlight some that have mattered as I have time (and interest).


One book I really connected with is Lavinia Spalding’s Writing Away.

It’s always hard for me to say why I connect with a particular book and not others. I don’t think I’m unique in this. I always wanted to be a travel writer. Or I should say, I always wanted to travel and I always wanted to write. When I was a kid, I used to devour the “International” section of the Washington Post, imagining myself in those distant countries, writing in those “faraway” lands. I read National Geographic and always imagined what it must be like to be one of the writers or photographers going on assignments to all those locations, meeting all those interesting people, experiencing all those adventures around the world. I always read Outside magazine back in the 1980s back when it was good, publishing cutting-edge, thought-provoking, sometimes radical stories of adventure and travel. I’m thinking of writers like Tim Cahill or David Quammen, among others.

So when we left Portland, back in 2014, I thought now is the time. I can finally do that kind of writing.

What I didn’t expect was just how difficult that would turn out to be. The inertia of the previous 20 years of adult life—career changes, adulthood, parenthood—didn’t just stop. And the adjustment to and keeping up with our new chosen life, including being a present homeschooling father on the road, was overwhelming. In hindsight, I should have written about all that. But there’s hindsight for you.

When I found Writing Away, it was the first book that I connected with, offering how to actually accomplish the kind of writing I wanted to do. Some reasons I think it resonated because it started at the beginnin—not with things like pitching articles or building a brand. But with seeing the world and listening to myself and writing that down in my journal. Regularly capturing my experiences raw, unedited, unfiltered. Getting into the habit of writing not for publication, but for presence.

Cover of Lavinia Spalding's "Writing Away" book

It took me a long time to learn why I liked the book. It was a combination of voice. She uses first person “we” instead of the removed “you” or even worse, the distanced third-person. It was storytelling; the concrete examples; the sometimes intimate, sometime humorous but always astute reflections; and the rich, versatile prompts, among other things.

My copy is filled with underlines, highlights, and margin notes. One I just came across reads:

“But in the beginning, grandiose aspirations can be an obstacle leading to self-criticism, self-loathing, self-sabotage, and eventually utter paralysis of the will to write.”

Remove the “will to write” and this could be said about idealism and idealists in any walk of life. And it definitely applies to me. I have felt and continue to feel every bit of this spiral. Eventually, sometime between arriving in San Miguel and before the pandemic, I just started journaling. Anything and everything or nothing, but no filter, no self-censoring. Just letting it vomit onto the page. For my mental health, it was essential.


I have many favorite writers: Gretel Ehrlich, Annie Dillard, Tim Cahill, Ernest Hemingway, Charles Mann, John Steinbeck, Carson McCullers, Beryl Markham. The list goes on.

Usually very evocative, sometimes lyrical prose. It is hard not to be sucked into the trap of comparing myself to those I admire. But isn’t that a universal trap for many in life?

The brings me to a second favorite book, West with the Night, by Beryl Markham. Some of her stories of adventure on the Kenyan savannah in the early 1900s are powerful. I feel myself there, lost as a child being hunted by a lion. Or learning to fly and her early flights in the pioneering days of aviation. Learning to fly when flight itself was barely understood. In remote Africa. Or taking of on her pioneering transatlantic flight from London, crashing into a marsh in Nova Scotia.

How does one compare to that?

The answer is, I don’t. And I shouldn’t.

It is hard not to compare. And I realize now that she was given a life circumstance; she didn’t choose to grow up in Africa. That was the choice of her father, who had his own issues. And she had many of her own issues. But what she did have was the spirit to learn, grow, adapt, persist, and thrive. And that’s something we can all learn from, wherever and whenever we are.

Packing Light, Remembering Deeply

Part of being back in San Miguel and tidying up is going through our things and deciding what to leave, what to give away, and what to try and bring with us. What we can bring with us is very limited, obviously, so we have to choose carefully. Some things are easy to leave behind: We’re not going to bring our special mugs or dinnerware, after all. Others are easy to bring along: We are packing certain important documents, even though most of them we have as a digital copy. You never know who will need an original copy of a birth certificate (it happens).

But it gets more difficult when we get to Ethan’s childhood possessions. On the one hand, we have cultivated a mindset where material things are not that important and can never replace memories and time together. On the other hand, there is power in the tokens that objects become of memories and events from our lives. It takes real work sometimes to not be overly nostalgic.

While we have collected a number of things over the years, most of them can go. We probably don’t need to keep that amazing bodysurfing board that we got on our visit to Zihuatanejo years ago. But every time I see it, I am reminded of the hours and hours Ethan and I spent in the water at Playa la Ropa and the fun we had together and all the other memories we made that week.

Of all the objects, I think the two most important we’ll hold onto are his sketchbooks and his childhood stuffed animals. He has a pile of sketchbooks going back to when he was maybe 5 years old or so. I don’t know how attached he is to them, but I feel they are his childhood and his objects so he should go through them and decide what he wants to do with them. They are his to keep or destroy.

What’s left of his sketchbooks. One of the red ones at top dates back to when he was about 5 or 6 years old. These are the ones that are still left; there were more, but we photographed some to keep digitally and reduce the volume of paper.

And then the other are some of his childhood stuffed animals. While I think he is no longer attached to these, it is more about his parents and something precious to hold onto stretching back to his infancy. And grandkids…who knows? Ultimately, these may even go away, but not yet.

And there are other things to go through, but the list gets smaller. I still have to go through all my books (separate post). I’ve gotten rid of most of my papers that I’d collected while learning to guide at El Charco–I had accumulate a 2-foot tall stack of environmental history, Mexican culture and mythology, and earth and life science papers. Much is now in my head. Most is backed up digitally. And all of it is learning for the next phase of life.

In the end, sorting through our things will be less about stuff and more about the stories we tell ourselves. I think it’s about looking back on who and where we’ve been, what we’ve valued, and how we want to carry those memories forward. Some things are easy to let go of; others, we cling to a little longer, a little deeper, a little tighter. As the list gets shorter and the objects dwindle, what’s left feels more intentional. It’s not just about what we’re taking with us; it’s about but who we are as we move forward and who we will become in this next phase of our life.

Meandering Through the Layers of Urban Nature, History, and Change

Tuesday, 03 June 2025. San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico.

Rain overnight. I laid awake in the dark at 3am listening to the storm. Fresh air wafted down from the window with the occasional splash of water. Like an embrace, it left me comforted.

This morning, I had to go up to El Charco to meet and do some training with one of our new guides. I figured the morning was cool, it would be a nice morning to walk. I forgot when the rains arrive, it may be cooler, but the humidity amps up. Which I know, because all the sweat that normally evaporates, now doesn’t. I was drenched.

Regardless, too busy of a day and evening to write much, so I’m just going to share some of the photos from my walk up the hill this morning.

Below are some shots of Santo Domingo, the way up to the Arcos de San Miguel and Atascadero neighborhoods.

Below are the springs that still produce at least periodic water. Even in the dry season, there is a little water coming from these. Most of San Miguel’s springs have long since dried up.

The unfortunate gateway to the unfortunate, exploitive abomination that is the Capilla de Piedra development. Can’t miss it from most parts of centro.

Up, up, and into Arcos de Atascadero.

And on into Atascadero…

San Miguel’s croquet club, located on the old Camino Real. The old royal silver road continued down into centro and eventually turns into Calle Mesones, which was the “street of the inns”.

Mezquite pods ripening from green to brown. When ripe, they’ll be sweet and edible. A local term is dulce de campesino.

And how do you tell a female pirul tree? By the abundant red berries:

Isn’t the bark on the Eucalyptus like an abstract work of art?

More rainy season photos in the late afternoon:

Daily Life and Discovery in San Miguel de Allende

Monday, 02 June 2025. San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico.

31 days until blast off.

Feeling proud of myself that I’ve managed to write and post five days in a row. It was touch and go over the weekend. I didn’t think I’d be able to do it on Saturday. You know, the whole three days in a row writing fatigue thing.

Actually, more like the wallowing in self-centered self-pity and despair of the whole “I’ve fucked up and wasted my whole life, while ruining the life of my wife and son.” It’s a post-project crash and despair I go through almost every time I finish up a big group of projects and am sucked into the vacuum of time that’s suddenly left over. But, a good nights sleep on a cool rainy night next to the woman I love was the balm I needed.

San Miguel is so full of interesting things. I’m curious about everything and everyone. I could find something almost anywhere in this city to write about. And so many interesting people who live here or pass through here. I want to lean in to the curiosity more. Engage. Ask questions. Say hola.

As I was passing through the Jardin Principal this morning, I looked up and was reminded of the inscription on the front of Ignacio Allende’s home: Hic Natus Ubique Notus. Born here, known everywhere. Modest, right?

The plaque beside the door adds: “Here was born the immortal Ignacio Allende y Unzaga.” Immortal? He was executed by firing squad…so…there’s that.

As I passed this stone fountain, on the corner of Cuna de Allende and Cuadrante, I noticed a cloud of bees flying around. I looked to see what was up and noticed they were collecting on the fountain, drinking the moisture collecting around the rim and overflowing. Yes, they’re bees. Thirsty, thirsty bees. Yes, I stopped and took photos. You’re welcome.

I pass by this door all the time on Aldama and love the rich, weathered texture and colorful patina. I’ve always wondered who lives here. I’ve never seen anyone coming or going. It’s a mystery…(bonus points if you can name that movie).

Doors with a colorful worn copper green patina

If you’ve ever been to San Miguel, every morning you will see people opening their shops and mopping the sidewalks. The scent of Fabuloso wafting in the air. It’s always a curious site for new visitors; when I used to give history tours for Patronato Pro Niños, it came up quite a bit. I can’t remember anymore if it is actually mandated by the city (I believe it is) or just a point of civic pride.

Woman mopping a San Miguel sidewalk on Aldama

I’ve been asked about these signs from time to time. You’ll see them around large buildings, especially public buildings like schools. They are emergency gathering points. After the devastating 1985 Mexico City earthquake that leveled large sections of the city, Mexico instituted a series of reforms to try and bolster their disaster protection measures.

The country now has a large civil protection force to respond to public incidents. And you’ll see these signs. At least once a year (and I think a few times, but can’t remember), the country goes through a disaster simulation and among other things, building occupants evacuate to gather at these points.

Emergency evacuation point sign found throughout Mexico. A circle in the middle with four arrows point to it, indicating people are to gather here from any direction in an emergency

And another tranquil end to another beautiful day just south of the Tropic of Cancer. Grateful, curious, a little tired, and still here…for 31 more days.

Sunset glow over the north of San Miguel

Historic San Miguel: Sunday Walks and Local Flavors

Sunday 1 June 2025

Woke up to a rainy Sunday morning with gunmetal gray clouds draping the horizon.

As we’ve done almost every Sunday morning for the past several years, Pati and I walk out for coffee or breakfast before doing our weekly grocery shopping. This morning, we ended up at Panio on Salida a Celaya, where they serve an excellent shakshuka.

In the afternoon, to stretch my legs and my spirit, I headed toward the nearby Guadiana neighborhood and beyond.

Looking up Calle Guadiana. Current gentrification sprawls up the hillside to the east, where multimillion-dollar homes now sprout. The one visible is home to a well-known local immigration attorney.

Back in the 1500s and 1600s, San Miguel el Grande was a layover point on the Royal Silver Road (el camino real de tierra adentro). Merchants and craftspeople set up shop in San Miguel, along with the industries supporting them. Many settlers were from the sheep herding regions of Spain and brought their knowledge with them. San Miguel developed a well-known textile industry to process the wool. The local serapes became known throughout the world.

In the 1700s, wealthy landowners began to settle in San Miguel. Many of the mansions in Centro date to this colonial era. With gentrification during this time, others were pushed out to surrounding neighborhoods like Ojo de Agua, Valle de Maize, Mexiquito, and Guadiana, among others. The Guadiana neighborhood of that period developed around the local church, shown below. The church remains an integral part of the neighborhood and plays a central role in the annual spring rituals to the Santa Cruz and the bringing of the summer rains.

One of the current jewels of the neighborhood is the small but charming Guadiana park:

A mix of scenes below, with the narrow sidewalks, occasional tree-lined streets, and blend of the older single-story working-class homes alongside contemporary gentrified multistory homes:

I like the images below where you can see an older but well-maintained tiny home next to the lavanderia and garage, all adjacent to the converted boutique hotel:

And the evening skies with sporadic rain surrounding us:

Small World Encounters and Giant Ants: Notes from a Tranquil Day in Mexico

Aldama 57

Today was un dia tranquillo, a tranquil day, a kind of quiet and restful Saturday. Just to get out of the house for a bit, we went for a walk and ended up having a jugo verde and café at Aldama 57. I’m unclear how it relates to the adjacent hotels. Regardless, nice atmosphere, good coffee, and friendly service. 

While there , we met another couple with three sweet, friendly dogs. I wish I had been able to get their photos. As sweet, friendly dogs are prone to do…errr, as we are prone to do with sweet, friendly dogs, we couldn’t resist saying hello. In the small world department, the couple turned out to be from, of all places, Slovakia and Germany! So of course we ended up talking all about where they were from, how Ethan is in university in Prague, and how we are visiting him next month. It’s so interesting to meet someone coming from there to here as we go from here to there. 

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With the return of the rain over the last week (thank you, Tlaloc), I’ve noticed lots of the chicatanas laying about. I forgot to get pictures, but they are easily googleable (I just had to use that!). They are the male and female leaf-cutter ants (Atta mexicana) that come out every year. As the rains return, they set forth in the millions to establish new colonies (el vuelo nuptial, in Spanish; la  revoada in Portuguese). 

They go by many names in Mexico. Here are but a few…well, many that I have been able to find: arriera, hormiga campestre, hormiga de San Juan, cuatalata, chancharra, chícatera, tzicatera, shícatera, jibijoa, mochomo, monchona, parasol, quiss, nacasma, nokú, nucú, tepeoani, zompopo, tzim-tzim, tzín-tzín, tzitzin.

The most common and the only I’ve actually heard in use is chicatana. The word derives from tzicatl in Nahuatl, which means “butt”, and azkatl, which means ant. Hence, “ant butt”. Oh, Mexico…

Back in about 2016, during the first rains, we woke up to a courtyard flooded with about 6 inches (15cm) of water. On the cusp of coming in the apartment. When I raced out the storm drain, I discovered several thousand of the chicatanas had drowned and collected in the storm drain, which required shoveling them out so the water would drain. 

We have yet to try them, but we are told they are delicious. Here a video of them being used for culinary ends: